A door hinge: width 8 cm (open), length 9 cm. 2 Wooden blocks to connect the wheels (the base of the caster is 6圆 cm, hence the block must accomodate this size). Tighten the trucks enough and you limit steering and wobble (fixed 4 wheel board?). A plywood sheet to make the deck (90 cm x 35 cm x 0,9 cm) A pair of casters and a pair of wheels (diameter 7,5 cm). Bushings don't provide as snappy a RTC as channels IMO.
The 3-wheeler is definitely more stable above 20 mph (without tightening trucks)Ī skate truck is just a modified kingpin steering mechanism. While lean traction and turning radius improved over my dirtsurfer and T-board, especially at higher speeds, the tight carving radius of a dual channel truck setup just wasn't there. My 3-wheeler design - fixed single rear wheel with channel truck 2 wheel front steering - was a happy medium between in-line 2-wheel and front-rear 4-wheel steering (channel trucks). They just don't have the traction and/or carve radius of channel trucks (front and rear). I own and have ridden in-line 2-wheelers (RTR, T-board, dirtsurfer). I define responsive in terms of turning radius and RTC.įixed or caster 2-wheel in-lines can not turn with as tight a radius, inherent in their design. Combine that with the anatomy of the human ankle and reflex nerve paths and wobble amplifies. Methinks thou art too defensive.īut by design, the 4 wheelers with some form of kinpin steering wobble. No need to head to the mountains or go swimming in the ocean. These boards combine the adrenaline and skill needed for surfing or snowboarding but can be done right on dry land. Picture 11: Glue the block into place (make sure that no glue leaks into the Tee Nut.It was a general statement Jimmy, addressing the basic differences in 4 wheel kingpin/pivot, front-rear steering versus iniline 2-wheelers with fixed or caster front wheels. Looking for more of a challenge The RipStik casterboard is the perfect option for you. Picture 10: this is how the nut on the other side looks like.
Picture 8 & 9: Turn the deck to the other side and drill a larger hole so that the Tee Nut rests flush to the deck (appr. Mark the board where the eye of the blade is.
Picture 7: Assemble the set up: blade and hinge. Work accurately! Picture 6: Cut the board in two (at 45 cm form the nose) and lay it on a large flat surface. Use a chisel to cut a trench so that the hinge rests flat on the deck when assembled. Lay the blade on the small block that you will use later and draw a horizontal line. Cut parallel to the board, approximately 1 cm deep. Picture 3, 4 & 5: The rear section of the blade (that acts like a torsion bar) has to be inserted in the rear caster block. Reverse the hinge and insert the nut and bolt. Picture 1 & 2: Disassemble the hinge and hammer out the pin and cap (compare to the picture in step 1). Picture 9: The distance between blocks is 48 cm. Picture 7 & 8: Don't worry about the length, they will stick trough the deck and will be cut / sanded later. Apply large force while the glue is curing. Picture 6: Insert and glue the dowell pins in the block. The location of the front block is 8cm from the tip of the board, the location of the rear block is is 56 cm from the tip. Picture 5: Ensure that the block is accurately alligned with the central axis of the deck. Picture 4: Add dowel centre pins to tag te deck. The holes shouldn't be closer to the edge of the block than 1 cm. Make sure that the holes do not i nterfere with the screws of the casters. Picture 3: Drill 6 mm holes for the wooden dowel pins to connect to the deck (1 cm deep). Picture 2: Pre-drill the screw holes for the casters (smaller than the size of the screws). The casters I use, require a 6 x 6 cm surface on the block. I used two wooden legs of a chair as this gave me an additional conical shape, but you can use straight blocks just the same. Therefore you need two blocks that are cut at this angle (use a miter saw). Picture 1: The wheels need to be angled at approximately 30 to 40 degrees.